Pineapple Cheesecake Bars

a way to use your less than stellar fruit

I grabbed a $2.99 pineapple at Trader Joe’s the other week and when I cut into it, it was the palest color yellow, tough and a bit sour. I began brainstorming what I could do with my completely underwhelming pineapple and I remembered these beautiful cheesecake bars I created a few years ago.

When I originally wrote this recipe, I was still living in Florida, it was April, and my herb garden was verdant and flourishing. I remember grabbing handfuls of fragrant pineapple sage to cook down into my pineapple jam, the grassy herb perfectly offsetting the tangy pineapple. Now it’s April in New Jersey, I’ve just finished putting my flower seeds in the ground, and a thriving herb garden is still at least a month away.

Lucky for us, cooking mediocre fruit into a jam is not an exact science and herbs and flavorings can be substituted and omitted with abandon. You can adapt this recipe to fit any fruit, fresh or frozen, that you’d like and cooking fruit into a jam not only prolongs its shelf-life, but helps concentrate the sugar and flavor, giving your otherwise unenjoyable fruit a new life. As in this recipe, pineapple pairs well with earthier herbs like pineapple sage, lemon balm, thyme or bay leaves. Bright berries, like strawberries and raspberries would go beautifully with more delicate herbs like basil and I love the combination of dark berries (blackberries and blueberries) with lavender.

pineapple cheesecake bars

makes one 9x13” pan, about 24 servings

Ingredients:

for the pineapple jam

2 cups diced pineapple

1/4 cup brown sugar

1/2 tsp vanilla powder (or 1 tsp vanilla extract)

1 sprig (about 8 leaves) lemon verbena*

4 large leaves of pineapple sage*

for the cheesecake filling

3 tbsp unsalted butter

16 oz full-fat cream cheese, softened

3/4 cup (150 g) granulated sugar

2 eggs

3 tbsp heavy cream

1/4 tsp kosher salt

1 tsp vanilla extract

1 1/2 tsp cornstarch

for the crust

5 oz cookie crumbs (such as graham crackers, Maria Cookies, or other shortbread)

1/4 cup shredded coconut

2 tbsp granulated sugar

4 tbsp melted butter

Procedure:

to make the pineapple jam

1. Combine all ingredients in a large saucepan and set over medium heat. Bring to a boil, and then simmer for 20-30 minutes, until sugar is completely dissolved, pineapple has softened, and jam has slightly thickened. Remove from heat and cool completely.

to make the cheesecake bars

1. Preheat the oven to 325° F.

2. In the bowl of a food processor fitted with the blade attachment, combine cookie crumbs, coconut, and sugar. Pulse for 30 seconds until combined.

3. Transfer to a bowl and stir in the melted butter until coated and sufficiently moist. Press into an even layer in a parchment-lined 9x13 pan. Set aside.

4. Place butter in a small saucepan set over medium heat and cook, swirling occasionally, for 6-7 minutes, until fragrant and flaked with little brown spots. Transfer to a bowl and place in the refrigerator to cool completely.

5. In a small bowl, whisk together sugar and cornstarch.

6. In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment, beat the cream cheese until smooth. Scrape down the sides of the bowl, and add the sugar/cornstarch mixture. Cream for about 2 minutes, until light and fluffy. With the mixer on low speed, add the eggs, one at a time, followed by the heavy cream, vanilla extract, and cooled browned butter. Switch the whisk attachment and whip until very smooth and no lumps remain.

7. Pour the cheesecake batter over the crust and use an offset spatula to smooth into an even layer.

8. Dollop the pineapple jam over the top of the cheesecake and swirl with a knife or skewer.

9. Bake for 30-35 minutes, until set. Cheesecake should barely jiggle when shaken. Let cool to room temperature and then cover and chill for at least 12 hours. Slice and serve.