Browned Butter Pumpkin Roulade
'tis the season for pumpkin rolls galore
We are deep into classic pumpkin dessert season. I’ve made pumpkin muffins and loaf cakes, giant pumpkin chocolate chip cookies, and now I’m here with one of the most classic pumpkin desserts around—the pumpkin roulade (or pumpkin roll cake). I leaned into simplicity for this recipe with a very simple, spiced pumpkin sponge cake filled with an easy browned butter and cream cheese frosting. It’s lightly sweet, very pumpkin-y, and perfect for sharing with your friends and family this season.
the cake
In case you’ve forgotten, we’re in sponge cake month in the newsletter. Sponge cakes are perfect for roulade-ing because they are super light and pliable. The springy consistency is easier to mold and shape than a traditional cake. For this recipe, we’re following the traditional sponge method: whip whites with sugar, whip yolks with sugar, fold in dry, fold in whites, but we’re adding canned pumpkin and a smattering of warming fall spices. (If you’re interested in more on all things sponge, check out this month’s deep dive post.)
We bake our cake quickly in an un-greased sheet pan so it’s able to crawl up the sides. Then we roulade the warm cake (there’s a whole section on that in a minute, just keep reading) and fill it with a classic cream cheese frosting that’s been spiked with a little browned butter. In my opinion, a good pumpkin roll cake is best served cold with a big cappuccino, about a day after making it when the flavors have had time to gel.
how to roulade
Ok, there’s a fun little process in getting your cakes to hold their rolled shape without crumbling and breaking and I’m going to teach you how to do it. It involves 'training’ your warm cake into the shape you’d like before filling it and all you need is a sponge cake (recipe included), a clean large dish towel, and some confectioners’ sugar.
To roulade:
While your cake is baking, prep your station by spreading your large clean dishtowel over a flat work surface.
Generously dust the entire surface of the dishtowel with a layer of confectioners’ sugar. This prevents sticking.
When the cake is done baking, invert it onto the dusted dish towel. Remove the sheet pan and parchment paper, and then dust the side of the cake that is face up with a layer of confectioners’ sugar.
Then, beginning on a shorter end, grab the edge of the dish towel and fold it onto the cake. Roll the cake and dish towel together into a tight log.
Let the cake cool for 10-15 minutes in this tight log shape and then gently unroll the cake.
Frost or fill as you’d like, and then re-roll the cake, this time without the dishtowel.
Wrap the cake tightly in plastic wrap and transfer to the fridge to chill and set before slicing and serving.
browned butter pumpkin roulade
makes one large roll, from one half sheet pan
Ingredients:
for the pumpkin cake:
4 eggs, separated
3/4 cup (150 g) granulated sugar, divided
3/4 cup (90 g) all purpose flour
1/2 tsp baking powder
1/2 tsp baking soda
1 tsp ground cinnamon
3/4 tsp ground ginger
1/2 tsp ground cardamom
1/4 tsp ground nutmeg
1/4 tsp ground cloves
1/4 tsp ground all spice
1/2 tsp kosher salt
3/4 cup (155 g) canned pumpkin
3 tbsp confectioners’ sugar, for dusting
for the frosting
1/2 cup (113 g) browned butter, cooled completely
8 oz cream cheese, softened
50-60 g (about 1/4 of a cup) confectioners’ sugar
2 tbsp heavy cream
pinch of salt
Procedure:
Preheat the oven to 375° F and line a half sheet pan with parchment paper. Do not grease the pan! Set aside.
In a medium bowl, whisk together flour, baking powder, baking soda, spices, and salt. Set aside.
Place the egg whites in the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the whisk attachment. Begin whipping on medium low speed until frothy. When the whites are frothy, increase the mixer speed and gradually begin streaming in half of the granulated sugar. Whip the egg whites until medium peaks form and then transfer them to a clean bowl.
Place the egg yolks and the remaining half of granulated sugar in the mixing bowl and whip on medium high until egg yolks are light and thick and have doubled in volume. Remove the bowl from the mixer.
Gently fold the dry ingredients into the whipped egg yolks until almost all of the flour streaks have been worked in, followed by the canned pumpkin.
Finally, working in batches, gently fold the egg whites into the batter, taking care not to deflate the air bubbles. When the batter is mixed and homogenous, pour it onto the prepared sheet pan and use an offset spatula to smooth it into an even layer.
Bake for about 10 minutes, until cake is dry to the touch and the edges are golden brown.
While the cake is baking, lay a large, clean dishtowel on a work surface and dust the towel generously with half of the confectioners’ sugar.
After baking, invert the warm cake onto the dusted dishtowel. Remove the pan and the parchment paper from the cake and dust the side of the cake that is facing up generously with the rest of the confectioners’ sugar.
Starting on one horizontal end, use the dishtowel to tightly roll the cake (and the towel) into a log. Let the cake cool this way for about 10 minutes.
Unroll the cake and let it cool completely while you make the frosting.
To make the browned butter, place unsalted butter in a saucepan set over medium heat and cook, swirling occasionally, for 6-7 minutes, until little brown flecks begin to appear at the bottom of the pan and the butter smells nutty and fragrant. Transfer the browned butter to a bowl to cool completely.
When the butter is room temperature, combine it with the softened cream cheese in the bowl of a mixer fitted with the paddle attachment. Beat until smooth and combined.
Add the confectioners' sugar, heavy cream, and salt and beat until smooth and fluffy.
Spread the frosting in an even layer over the surface of the cake and then roll the cake tightly into a log. Wrap in plastic wrap and chill for at least 2 hours before serving.